Have you ever heard the word "Favella" before? I hadn't until I got to Brazil, but there are over 600 of them in central Rio alone.
A favella is a slum, make shift wood and brick shacks make up these illegal neighbourhoods. There are no official amenities, you might find a pilon near a favella which is covered in a mangle of cables that siphons off the power to some parts of it, and tubes coming off water mains, but nothing is legally plumbed or wired.
They are all run by one of 3 main rival drug lords in Rio. Who runs each one is evident by the graffitied mark the gang sprays on every filthy wall of their property.
The inhabitants are varied, lawyers and pimps live together in them, and there is always a rich neighbourhood right next to a favella, this is were the rich people come to get their recreational drugs, be it marihuana, cocaine or more recently crack.
The guide books warn that they are dangerous places and to stay out of them. They are patrolled by the drug lords men, including "soldiers" who walk around armed, ready to protect the area from rival flavellas, and "watchers" who shoot flares into the air if they see the police approach the perimeter.
They have their own rules, and any issues must always be resolved within the favella, the key is to draw as little attention to themselves as possible and not to arouse police interest. They are far from invisible, for one they are massive, and secondly there are shoot-outs from time to time, not too subtle!!
So when we heard of Luis who grew up in Rocinha (the biggest favella in Rio), we jumped at the chance of being taken in and learning more about them.
Luis parked his very nice car in a posh neighbourhood that's right next to Rocinha and a short walk took us to the entrance where our chariots awaited, a row of tough looking Brazilians on motorbikes beckonned us to hop on so I did. Chris shouted "Sam for God's sake pick a small bike" but it was too late, I had inadvertedly picked the biggest bike with the biggest dude!
They zoomed up to the very top of the favella and we would walk down with Luis ahead of our little group of gringos.
Within 5 minutes of arriving Luis shouted "No foto!" A gang member holding an ouzie walked right passed Chris, the barrel of the gun pointing directly at Chris' stomach.
The place was amazing, as you got deeper and deeper the conditions got worse and worse. The smell of the sewage got stronger, the floors were soden with rotten water from the split make shift pipes, and kids walked bare footed over piles of rubbish. Every few steps you would see the gangs initials graffitied on walls, ADA Amigos de Amistad, ironically it means Friends of Friendship.
We visited a little art gallery that Luis had helped some graffitti artists set up. Just as he was explaining the project Luis broke down in tears and sobs, one of the artists had been a close friend and died in a motorbike accident only a couple of days before. The young dead mans' family were in the same room and desperately tried to hold it together in front of us, it was really heart wrenching.
But there was something really good and special happening in Rocinha, the daycare center. With Louis' tour which is called "Be a Local" he has set up a center to help neglected children aged 0 to about 6.
The kids were so cute and smiley despite some of them showing signs of malnurtition. They seemed to get a lot of love and fun from the volunteers running it, and they are given 3 square meals a day which they seem to thoroughly enjoy, especially on Mondays as some aren't feed for the entire weekend.
Despite the weapons and the conditions I felt pretty safe in Rocinha for some reason, and the people were really smiley and kind. As Louis pointed out it is a shame that we have it all and often can appear miserable, whilst they have nothing and are happy and friendly, quite embarrassing really.
It was a great experience and I would recommend it to anybody visiting Rio.
Sam and Chris
Footnote to parents: This was an organised trip and we were safe so don't panic we would never have gone alone.