"Shall we check the surf?"
Sam is getting bored of me saying that. We have had the board now for 7 days and I have been surfing 5 days (the 6th day we were in Melbourne, the 7th is today, and we are heading to the beach).
I haven't seen any sharks yet, but must admit i did get a bit nervous the other day when i was out in quite a big break on my own (i figure that another surfer 1/2 your chances (or doubles your chances) which ever way you want to look at it)
I nearly wet myself when i think I have 2 months of surfing, and then 1 months or snowboarding in NZ, i can't quite believe that this is actually my life!
Sam is doing well, she stood up on her second session, she has got the paddling down and catches her own waves, then jumps up (bum first) then surfs into shore. She looks wicked.
The 3 of us are still sleeping together in the van, two of us dream of good swell, the other dreams of hot showers, smoked salmon and champagne.
I haven't seen any sharks yet, but must admit i did get a bit nervous the other day when i was out in quite a big break on my own (i figure that another surfer 1/2 your chances (or doubles your chances) which ever way you want to look at it)
I nearly wet myself when i think I have 2 months of surfing, and then 1 months or snowboarding in NZ, i can't quite believe that this is actually my life!
Sam is doing well, she stood up on her second session, she has got the paddling down and catches her own waves, then jumps up (bum first) then surfs into shore. She looks wicked.
The 3 of us are still sleeping together in the van, two of us dream of good swell, the other dreams of hot showers, smoked salmon and champagne.
posted by Chris at 1:01 AM
4 Comments:
Way to go dudess and dude!!!!!!!!!!!!! Surf on!
Chris-> NOW I'm really jealous!
I sound like such a stoner....
Don't worry about it Simon, you should hear Chris these days!!! I did a drop in, bottom top turn something or other about going down the line. Blah blah...I don't really understand, all I know is it's all good man!
Si, you would love it, surfing everyday in warm water and perfect waves. It would be wicked to have you and Garth out here, surfing alone is abit wierd, i keep freaking myself out about shadows under the water, although i bet you are used to that in S.A
Are you getting a board for your trip?
P.S I saw a 4x4 all kitted out like yours with the roof tent up etc, it looked awesome.
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