Sam Is Surfing!
I ask alot of Sam. She follows me down mountain sides on whatever she can travel fastest on, a snowboard, blades, or her bum. She sits on the beach in howling wind lifeguarding me as a Windsurf in Vietnam, and now I drag her up and down the east coast of Oz sleeping in the back of a van in between a surfboard. She does amazingly well, puts up with me and makes every effort to join in, and keep a smile on her face.
So 6 weeks ago when I managed to convince her to splash out 400 pounds of our travelling budget on a piece of fiber glass and two rubber suits, I promised her all my time, whenever she wanted I would teach her to surf as best I could.
The first few sessions were a disaster, we stood in the white water getting continuosly pummled by the cold waves, again in the howling wind, both of us with icecream headaches. She didn't seem too excited about surfing anymore, and screams of "Puta Madre" (look it up) while she put the 12th ding with her right hook in the board made me think Sams surfing career, and my instructor career were over.
But as ever, the Spanish stubbordness came through and while I lay sunbathing on the beach, she grabbed the "Puta Madre" and swam straight out the back of the break and rode her back to shore. I couldn't believe it, my stomach turned upside down, and couldn't stop smiling.
Then to top it off, yesterday she actually came for a proper surf with me ( i was on the boogie board). She jumped into the sea off the rocks with all the confidence in the world, then sat on the "Puta" outback along with all the other surfers and waited for her wave. Sooner or later a beauty 3 footer rolled in, she lay down, paddled, and popped up onto her feet with ease. I swear she even surfed down the line of the wave, but I definatly saw her flick her now slightly blond hair out of her face, she jumped off, screamed with both hands in the air, and paddled straight back out and simply said "I'm STOKED".
My work here is done, Sam can surf, and the Puta Madre is allowed back in bed at night.
Chris
So 6 weeks ago when I managed to convince her to splash out 400 pounds of our travelling budget on a piece of fiber glass and two rubber suits, I promised her all my time, whenever she wanted I would teach her to surf as best I could.
The first few sessions were a disaster, we stood in the white water getting continuosly pummled by the cold waves, again in the howling wind, both of us with icecream headaches. She didn't seem too excited about surfing anymore, and screams of "Puta Madre" (look it up) while she put the 12th ding with her right hook in the board made me think Sams surfing career, and my instructor career were over.
But as ever, the Spanish stubbordness came through and while I lay sunbathing on the beach, she grabbed the "Puta Madre" and swam straight out the back of the break and rode her back to shore. I couldn't believe it, my stomach turned upside down, and couldn't stop smiling.
Then to top it off, yesterday she actually came for a proper surf with me ( i was on the boogie board). She jumped into the sea off the rocks with all the confidence in the world, then sat on the "Puta" outback along with all the other surfers and waited for her wave. Sooner or later a beauty 3 footer rolled in, she lay down, paddled, and popped up onto her feet with ease. I swear she even surfed down the line of the wave, but I definatly saw her flick her now slightly blond hair out of her face, she jumped off, screamed with both hands in the air, and paddled straight back out and simply said "I'm STOKED".
My work here is done, Sam can surf, and the Puta Madre is allowed back in bed at night.
Chris
posted by Chris at 6:04 AM
1 Comments:
well don darling! Can you post some pics of you surfing?
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